Showing posts with label Faux Glass Eyes. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Faux Glass Eyes. Show all posts

Thursday, February 18, 2016

Happy Bluebird Pom Pom Critter


(FREE TUTORIAL by Deanne Crim)

I am obsessed with vintage style crafts. The kind that remind me of days gone by...whether its my own days gone by, or the days of antiquity, I am inspired and always intrigued. It isn't unusual to find me sprouting crafts that have a vintage flair.

Vintage Pom Pom toys were a popular item created and sold by Steiff® from the 1920's through the 1950's. Birds of all styles were very popular, as well as bunnies, chicks, and other animals. My endeavor to re-create my own version of these well-loved toys & decorations, begins with this adorable "Happy Bluebird" to welcome Spring!

Happy Bluebird is crafted with handmade pom poms and thread-wrapped chenile stems, for the arms and legs. The eyes are made of polymer clay and various coloring options, then domed with a liquid UV resin called "Magic Gloss by Lisa Pavelka®". You can find my free tutorial on how to make the faux glass eyes here: 


I will be sharing free tutorials on an entire series of  pom pom critters, so be sure to check back and see what the next menagerie addition is!


SUPPLIES:

Medium Weight Yarn (colors of your choice)
Light Blue for the head and body and the wrapping for the arms. 
White for the spots on the chest and top of head
Bright Yellow for the wrapping of the legs/feet. 

*You can use any weight yarn of your choice, even thin baby-weight #1 will work fantastically, you will just have to wrap more of it to make the pompom full since its so thin. Just make sure that the yarn has a soft feel to it so your pom pom characters will be cuddly and soft. 

This Happy Bluebird was made from a more expensive-ish yarn in the specific color I wanted, but in projects to follow, I found that Red Heart® Super Saver Yarn works masterfully! It comes in a gazillion colors and is ultra affordable, at just $3.19 per skein (full price at my local Joann craft store). With coupons it is a steal!! You will see in this continuing Pom pom series that I am single handedly keeping Red Heart® yarn company in business! lol

Waxed Cord or Strong Carpet Thread w/ Beeswax coating
This is to tie the pom poms together. The waxed cord is perfect, though I occasionally break it thru my brut strength (lol). You can also used dental floss but I don't know how it will hold up in the longrun. I purchased my waxed cord at Joann's craft store, however I have seen it everywhere that craft supplies are sold, or hardware stores. 

Chenile Stems (pipe cleaners)
I use cotton chenile stems purchased through Amazon.com from a manufacturer here in the United States, BJ Long. 
You can find a link to the Amazon.com page HERE

The chenile stems come in two sizes (I use both sizes, depending on the size of the pom pom critter or doll, and the thickness of limbs I am trying to make. I most often use the larger size for the medium sized critters such as the bluebirds). 

These particular chenile stems are very soft, like the old fashioned ones, not like the ones sold in craft stores today, which are synthetic fibers and have a more "hairy" texture, which is a bit more difficult to thread-wrap and cover. However, the regular ones can certainly be used on your projects successfully, if you have a few on hand, it just may take some careful wrapping to hide the fibers. 

Aleene's Tacky Glue or Fast Dry Tacky Glue: 
This is always my craft glue of choice. You cannot beat Aleene's to do the job and hold things in place over time.

Eyes:
I find that these characters look adorable without eyes. I went back and forth deciding whether or not to include eyes or leave them off. Once I made the faux glass eyes using polymer clay though, the decision made itself.  They turned out with so much personality and character that I had to use the polymer clay faux glass eyes! 

*You can also use 6mm, 8mm or 10mm black beads for the eyes (sewing or gluing them in place), which gives the characters a very sweet look. For kids crafts you can use simple circles cut from felt then glued in place, or inexpensive  googly-eyes purchased from the craft store (the ones with wobbly black pupils in the middle of the plastic domed eyes). 

**Keep in mind, if you use faux glass eyes or beads, the pom pom toy will not be suitable for smll children to play with, as it presents a choking hazard!! Please use felt circles for small children's gifts!!

Embellishments:
I made a small pom pom "Flowered Egg" as an accessory for my Happy Bluebird and gave him a small bouquet of paper millinery flowers for his favorite "Chick". 

I purchased the millinery flowers from my local mish-mosh-awesome-fabric-craft-store; SAS Fabrics, here in Phoenix ArizonaYou can find millinery flowers to purchase online, or make your own paper flowers. Check youtube for video tutorials.

Display Stands:
If you do not intend for your pom pom critter to be a toy that can be held and played with...(yes, adults want to play with their pompoms too!)...It is a great idea to make a stand for your critter. 

I like to use small round wooden discs (available at every craft store) in various sizes depending on the size of the pompom character, for display stands. You can either glue the feet of your critter in place on the top of a painted wooden disc (embellished with felt, fabric, lace, trim, etc. if you desire), or you can pre-drill two holes, spaced an inch or so apart at the center (approx), and use ribbon or wire to securely tie the feet to the disc, coming up through the holes from underneath, then wrapping and twisting around the "ankles" and "feet" of your critter. 

If you use ribbon, you can bring it up from the bottom, through the holes, and tie a pretty bow to secure in a more optional manner, where it can be removed. Glue will always secure the best, but it will leave no options...once its glued, its there for good!


TOOLS

Sharp Scissors (to cut yarn & trim pom poms)

Wire Cutter or Kitchen Shears (to cut chenile stems)

Corsage Pins (for securing poms in place while glue dries)

Clover® PomPom Maker Tool
(You can find it on Amazon.com: Here)


OR 
Here is a link from the blog Homeade-Gifts-Made-Easy.com for various sizes of:



If you think you might enjoy this craft project, I strongly suggest purchasing Clover® Pompom maker tools, because you can whip out pompoms in no time flat! I have been astonished at the production level I have been able to achieve! I have made pompoms since I was a kid (many many moons ago), and the Clover® tools are sheer GENIUS!! 

I cannot tell you how much faster they get the job done then the old cardboard template "donuts" I used in the olden days! Better yet, the Clover® tools are extremely affordable! Other than the largest size, they come with two sizes to a package, and are under $10.00 at my local Joann's craft store. 

If you have a Joann's store near you, or you're able to purchase from them online at Joann.com, not only can you use one of their endless 40% off coupons, they also carry all of the sizes, which range from 3/4" up to about 6". 

Pom pom sizes can also be adjusted based on how much yarn you trim off. Each tool will actually create various sized pompoms, including much larger then their description mentions. If you wrap the pom pom maker very full it will produce a pompom much larger then the tool itself. 

Let the Crafting Begin!!

HEAD

1.  Using the Clover® yellow colored pom pom maker (size 1-5/8"
wrap approx. 8-10 rounds of white yarn at the top center (only) of the pom pom maker tool (or cardboard template). This will form the tuft on the top of the head. Cut the yarn leaving a 1/2-inch tail that you can hold in place with your fingers while you add the blue yarn to the pom pom maker and wrap over the white area. Once you trim the pom pom the extra length with get trimmed away.


2.  Begin wrapping over the white yarn with light blue yarn, filling in the sides and over the top of the white wraps to cover it completely. Continue wrapping light blue yarn until the pom pom maker is full. Wrap the other side of pom pom maker with all light blue yarn. If you are new to making pompoms you can practice making a few single colored ones to get comfortable with the process, but its pretty simple!



3. Trim pom pom loops through the crevice in the Clover® pom pom maker, as described in the package directions. (photo is a different color then the light blue head, in case you noticed and thought your eyes were tricking you...I forgot to take a photo while making the light blue head...oops!) 

Tie a piece of waxed cord, pulling it up through the center of tool and around the total yarn wrapped fuzz ball (as described in tool information or in cardboard pom-maker tutorial); pull very snuggly, and tie a square knot to secure. Tie one additional knot just to be extra safe! Don't fret if your cord breaks, it happens to me all the time when I get to "He-womanish"...start over and you'll be good!


4. Pull apart the pom pom maker tool to release the pom pom. The pom pom will be irregular shape when you remove it, so don't fret!
Grab the cord-tie ends and shake back and forth in the air to fluff and shake loose. 




5. Trim pom pom into a round shape with your sharp scissors, leaving the white wrapped "tuft" of feathers untrimmed so it sticks up like fluffy "bird hair" (okay, "feathers" if you insist!). Go slowly with the trimming...a little goes a long way, and you can't grow it back, so don't be aggressive with your scissors. 

When first starting to trim, I hold onto the cord tie ends snuggly, trimming around and around and around, cutting in a "rounded" action that attempts to create the roundness from all angles. (You'll get better and better at this, the more pom poms you make). As you trim the blue yarn fibers, shaping the head into a round sphere and avoiding the white fibers, you will begin to see the white head tufts rise above the blue nicely. Once the head is shaped nicely you can trim the white tufts neatly, but keep them longer then the other blue yarn to give the bird some character. (I've made several of these and its always amazing to see the individual personality come forth...no two are exactly alike!)



6. BODY
Using the yellow Clover® Pom Pom Maker (size 1-5/8") wrap the center section on half of the Pom Pom tool with white, for chest "feathers". The amount can vary depending on how much white you want. Experimentation is your best friend. You will learn a lot by trying different things. Wrap the entire pom pom tool with light blue (or color of choice) covering over the white yarn completely.  Wrap the pom pom tool fully, yet still able to fold back into the trimming "chamber" as directed in tool instructions. (When I make mine, I wrap extra full because I like tight pom poms which trim into nice solid shapes, but you can make loose pom poms with wonderful results, also)

Cut through the loops as instructed in general package directions (or instructions with the cardboard template), and tie with a strong square knot using waxed cord. Add an additional knot for good measure! Remove from the tool and shake the pom pom to fluff.

8.  Trim body into an oval shape (which is easy because the pom poms come out of the tool in an oblong shape!) Just as with the head, avoiding trimming the white yarn "feathers" until the very end, so you have the ability to keep them longer. 



9.  ARMS
The chenille stems for the arms must be glued into place on the upper part of the torso prior to attaching the head. 

Separate the pom pom yarn with your fingers at the top of the oval shape, holding the fibers apart so you can glue the chenille stem in place without getting a glue mess everywhere. 
(see photo below)



10. Place a blob of glue at the center of the yarn separation. 



11. Take a chenille stem and decide where the center is more or less. (You will be trimming them eventually, so it isn't critical to be exact...unless of course you are an obsessive perfectionist, which we can discuss later in our 12-step Craft-a-holic Meeting!) haha

12. Lay the chenile stem/pipe cleaner across the parted yarn, pressing it down into the glue to nestle in the yarn fibers. 


13. Add a large blob of glue on top of the center point of the chenile stem where you will be attaching the head.


14. Keeping the tuft feathers on the top, attach the head pom pom by pressing into the glue, holding firmly in place. (You need a fair amount of glue to attach it, but you don't want so much that it makes a hard spot that is easily felt when the glue dries. 


15. Using a long corsage pin, stick the point end through the top of the head and into the body (temporarily), until the glue is dry enough to hold it securely.


16. LEGS:
Turn upside down (to the center underside of the body), and separate yarn fibers with your fingers just as you did for the arms,  then place a blob of glue at the center point, then place the center of a chenile stem into the glue.


17. The overflow glue will allow you to take your fingers and press the surrounding yarn pieces together from front and back, hiding the chenile stem. Hold onto it for a few moments to secure in place.


18.  Allow glue to dry completely.

(okay, so its upside down...but you get the idea!)



19. Eyes & Beak:
I probably should have waited to attach the eyes until the end, but this little guy was screaming to see, so I jumped ahead and glued his eyes on! I used my polymer faux glass eyes to create a whimsical real-life look, but you can also use beads or felt circles to make the eyes. 



For the beak, I cut two small triangles using yellow/gold felt and placed them one atop the other (to form a two sided beak that could be shaped), deep into the fibers (gluing along the straight edge of the beak triangle). The size depends upon the look you want to achieve...some beaks are bigger than others...Use your imagination!



20. The arms and legs are finished off by wrapping with yarn fibers. The arms are done in the same color as the body and head, whereas the legs are done in a golden yellow.


First the legs must be trimmed to the length you want. This is a matter of choice. Sometimes a long gangly legged bird can be adorable, other times a short squatty bird is full of the character you want...its your choice! I made mine about 3-1/2" to 4" long. Bend up about 1" into a "U" shape at the bottom to get an idea of where the foot will be. (I make a big loop at the bottom which will later be formed into a webbed shape foot). 

Place a thin dab of glue on the long leg side of the chenille stem (just above the height where the "U" top measures); Attach the end of yellow yarn there to secure in place. Unbend the "U" shape slightly so you can effectively wrap the yarn around the chenille stem, keeping in mind where your bend will be as you go. and begin wrapping around the chenille stem towards the "U" bend and the end of the chenille stem, covering with yellow. 

Before you get to the very end of the chenille stem, bend the "U" back into upward shape, bringing the end of the chenille stem together with the main leg and wrap around both the end and the leg, forming a loop to secure closed. 
(Sorry I forgot to take the photo...ugh)

Its a good idea to place tiny dabs of glue once in awhile to secure the yarn for years to come, but don't use too much! I am the "GLUE POLICE" and order you to be careful with your glue so you will end up with a fine quality handicraft! Wayward glue drips can ruin a project in no time flat, so be very careful!



Continue wrapping up the leg towards the body in an even manner, going all the way to the very top of the leg. Wrap around the upper part of the leg to form a tapered shape that resembles a "thigh". Once you achieve the look you like, place a tiny dab of glue near the top of leg to hide the end. Trim and hold carefully to make sure the yarn end grabs the glue. Repeat for opposite leg.



22. Carefully bend the loop upward into a "foot" angle, then bend the center of the foot loop inward to form a heart shape (or webbed foot, whichever terminology you prefer!) Voila! you have bird feet!




23. Arms are completed in a similar manner, first measuring and trimming the chenille stems to the chosen length, then using blue yarn that matches the body & head, repeat the process for the legs to wrap the arms. *Make the end loops smaller than for the feet.


As you can see from the photo, the arms have been wrapped slightly thicker than the legs...no real reason other than I think they look better being a bit thicker...just as wings are bigger then skinny bird legs, right?


Final Touches & Accessorizing

This sweet birdie is ready for springtime with his tiny paper flower bouquet (purchased at my local SAS fabric store...if you ever visit Phoenix, you MUST visit my HEAVEN on earth!) and a beautiful decorated Easter egg pom pom...which you can make yourself! 

I used the small Clover® pom pom maker (purple size .75 inches).

To make the tiny egg, begin by wrapping a flower "center" color on the pom pom tool with 3 or 4 wraps of color, then trim off. 

Next add the flower "petals" color by wrapping on both sides of the center color and across the top, covering the "center" color completely but not too many wraps because you need room for "leaves" and also the base cream color.


Add a few wraps of green (or leaf color of choice) on each side of the flower "petal" color.

Then wrap the base/background color of the egg over all of the colored flower wraps, covering completely and wrapping the tool fully but not too bulky to fit back into the pom pom maker tool!

Repeat on the other half of the pom pom maker if you want the design on both sides, otherwise, wrap the opposite side with the background color (I chose off white).


Cut ends and tie with waxed cord, then remove from pom pom maker (per package directions) and trim into a nice tidy egg shape. (You can see the difference in size, comparing the one on the left which was just removed from the pom pom maker, to the one on the right which has been trimmed).  Place the spring egg in the bent arm of your birdie and you are ready for a Fantastical Spring Fling!




"Tweet Tweet!"


I hope you have enjoyed this free tutorial for a Springtime Birdie  Pom Pom making! Please share your thoughts and pics with me here if you decide to dive into the world of Whimsical Pom Pom Pets!

Wishing you Sugarplum Dreams & Happily Ever Afters!!

Deanne xo
















Friday, March 20, 2015

Faux Glass Eyes: Polymer Clay


When I discovered the technique for making faux glass eyes using polymer clay, I was over the moon! It was on a random Youtube trail that led to a treasure trove of crafting information. There are so many uses for these, my mind is reeling! Not only suitable for doll eyes, they can also be used to create unique jewelry & artwork.

They really do look like glass! 

Learning about Lisa Pavelka® Magic Gloss UV Resin was a great find. It dries/cures using either direct sunlight (UV rays) or a UV light, such as nail-gel drying lights. I happen to have one of those from 25 years ago when I thought I needed my own for my new "gel" nails...I think I used it twice...then it sat in my bathroom cabinet...until now!

I have been sculpting miniatures with polymer clay since the late 1970's but had not yet discovered that I could make such scrumptious eyes for my crafting desires.

The Youtube video that I discovered, quite unexpectedly, on a random excursion has enchanced my crafting experience and given extraordinary embellishment to my creations. If you would like to watch the original video tutorial that I learned how to make these eyes, you can find it here: 



I have altered my eye-making process slightly from hers, finding it easier to eliminate the mold-making process for simpler "hole punched" versions which turn out just as splendidly. She has many other eye tutorials with techniques you may wish to explore. Her video tutorials are very detailed and will give you thorough instructions that won't leave you confused.



SUPPLIES:

White Polymer Clay 
I used Fimo for this project. I think Fimo works best because it has a firm consistency and is not too soft (even the "soft" version is more firm then Sculpey). You need the clay to hold its shape well as you add the colors, to keep the round shape.



Chalk Pastels 
(Not Oil Pastels)
(Such as used for drawing. Available at all craft stores)
*Optional: Mica Powders, Embossing Powders for color accents



Black Acrylic Paint 
(to paint pupils)

Lisa Pavelka® Magic Gloss UV Resin
(I purchased from Amazon.com you can view the link below) 




TOOLS: 

Nail "dotting" tools or Round Domed scultpting tools
These are inexpensive at the beauty supply store. I got mine on sale  at Sally Beauty Supply, for $7.99 for a set including various sizes.

For larger sizes, you will need to buy them from the polymer clay tools area of your local craft store. You can also use whatever random item you can find that will allow you to press a rounded "crater" in a small piece of polymer clay. This will be the base for the eyeball.




These sculpting tools are fantastic and come in larger sizes which can be used for a multitude of sculpting and crafting situtations.


Micro-Brushes, Small Paintbrushes or Q-tips®
As described in the Fairysinmypond video tutorial, I purchased some micro brushes from the model/hobby section of my local Hobby Lobby store. These are more like tiny "puffs" at the end of the plastic stick, allowing for easy "pick-up" of pastel chalk dust.



Exacto Blade/Craft knife
Used to scrape chalk pastels to form a dust which is applied to the center of the eye to form iris colors.

Leather Hole-Punch Tool (with assorted sizes)
Available at craft stores. I purchased mine from Hobby Lobby.



Let's Get Started!

1. Knead and soften clay then roll into a long snake shape. Flatten to approx. 1/8" (inch) thick. Smooth out fingerprints or markings on the clay to smooth. 

2. Using an exacto knife or craft blade, scrape along side or edge of white chalk pastel to form a small pile of white dust on a piece of aluminum foil. You will use this much like "flour" when you are making bread, to keep the stuff from sticking!



3.  Using the hole-punch with the size you have chosen, press the hole punch first into the pile of white pastel dust, tap off excess, then press into the clay strip to form round eye bases. 

Depending on your craft project, the size of the eyes you will need can vary. Experimentation is your best friend. My suggestion is to make lots of varied sizes so you have a lot of choices when it comes time to use them on a project.

*If the clay sticks inside of the tool, just push it out with a cotton-swab or piece of chenile stem. The eye "crater" indentation you will bemaking with the sculpting tool will press out any markings the cotton-swab might leave on the clay in the removal process. But if you dust the tool well with a tap of chalk dust, most of the circles will stay put on the strip of clay until you pull away the excess.




4.  Using a rounded end sculpting tool, press a "crater" carefully into the center of the clay disc, forming an indentation for the iris color. The more you do, the easier it gets.



You can see from the above photo, that I was able to press out all of the markings from the ones that got stuck inside of the hole punch tool. I have the piece of chenile stem in the photo because thats what I used to poke out the stuck pieces.

5.  Using an exacto blade/craft knife, scrape the end or side of chalk pastels in the colors you have chosen for your eyes, onto a work surface of aluminum foil. All combinations work well together, so use your imagination. 


6. Using your micro-brush, gently dip it into the chalk pastel powder, then carefully (trying not to drop powder on outside of crater) then dab the micro-brush with color into the eye crater, tapping and lightly pressing the color into the unbaked polymer clay. Continue dipping into the color dust, then dabbing into the crater until you have achieved a well saturated color. If you wish to make varigated color eyes, dab colors into separate areas of the crater as you lay it in. 



The photo above shows the first color (red) laid into the crater, for rainbow eyes. Each color is carefully placed inside to cover all white areas. Once you have finished laying in the colors, take a small brush dipped in the white chalk powder and go around the outside of the eye-white, brushing from the base upwards towards the crater edge, using the white powder to help clean up any color dust that may have escaped from the crater.

7.  Using the same round tool that you made the crater with, press gently but firmly into the color dust to secure it to the clay crater, being careful not to lose the round shape

8. You can add some optional "sparkle" to the eyes by adding a few tiny flecks of mica powders or embossing powder (Srapbooking section of the craft store), on top of the chalk pastel color. Add a tiny amount (especially if you are using embossing powder) so you don't cover your initial colors totally from view. Press the embellishment powders into clay with the round tool to secure.



9. Bake eyes (prior to painting the black pupil) in a 275 degree F. oven for 12-15 minutes. Ovens vary, so do a "test bake" with one pair of eyes first, before baking an entire batch. You would be heartbroken if they ended up burnt! See package instructions for recommended baking times and temperatures for other types of polymer clay. 

I like to make my eyes in pairs on separate tiny pieces of aluminum foil so I can keep them together and make them as similar as possible, then bake them directly on the tiny piece of foil that I transfer to a baking sheet. If you have a ceramic tile, they are great for baking polymer clay, and you can bake them directly on the ceramic tile. 

If you find that the aluminum foil piece slides around, you can temporarily secure it by placing a small piece of double-stick tape underneath. This will secure it to your work surface (or work tray, as I like to use). When you are ready to bake, carefully remove the double stick tape from the foil (do this slowly and very carefully so you do not disturb the shape of your eyes) and place on your baking sheet or ceramic tile for baking.



10.  After baking, allow eyes to cool completely. They will still be flexible while they are warm, but will firm up once cooled. 

*If you used embossing powder, you will see that it has gently spread across the iris and created an irridescent effect, depending on what color you used. 

11. Using a very small dotting tool, take a tiny bit of black paint and touch it to the direct center of the eye crater to make the "pupil". Allow to dry completely. 


12.  Using the same round scultpting tool that you made the eye "crater" with, dip into the Lisa Pavelka® Magic Gloss (just as if it was a paintbrush) then drop the resin carefully into the eye cavity.  You want a nice rounded dome to form over the crater, so if you need additional resin, dip it in again and drop additional resin to form a full rounded eye. 



You will be amazed at how big of a dome you can achieve with this resin. Be careful not to allow it to fall over the edge of the crater though, because once a "leak" happens, you will need to do some wiping and clean-up around the eye with drips. This is not a happy moment to endure. But everything can be repaired, so do not fret! Simply wipe off and start again.

*The Lisa Pavelka® Magic Gloss resin will not dry on its own.  You need to either place it in direct sunlight to cure, or use a UV light for curing. I use my gel nail polish UV light dryer that I purchased 25+ years ago. I barely used it for my short-lived fake-nail experience, but I kept it in my bathroom cabinet for some crazy reason...and now I know...the crazy reason...these EYES!!!


I am crazy for these eyes! 
I love them so much that I plan on making some fun jewelry pieces  that I can wear! I'm letting my imagination run wild, so stay tuned!!

I hope you enjoy exploring the world of polymer clay and its many wonderful possibilities!

Please leave a comment below and let me know what you think you ofthis project, and what you might be able to make with these magical eyes!

Have Fun Being Creative!!

With Sugarplum Hugs!
Deanne