Tiny Treasures: Best Friend Toothpick Dolls

I have gone off the deep end...

Its official. I can feel the plunge!!! 

The wind is blasting past me as I descend into the fray... 
I LOVE THIS FEELING!!!

A Creative Journey at its inception...

For many years, I have been an obsessed miniaturist. 50 years, in fact. (I started as a toddler and still have many of the treasures I collected). I am an enthusiast of epic proportion when it comes to tiny things. Whether it is caused from the fact I was always the tallest girl in my class practically until I reached high school or not, I am not sure. But I am fascinated, even enraptured on many occasions, by the wee world of miniatures. My new obsession with these thread-wrapped Toothpick Dolls....Tiny Toothpick Treasures, actually...trumps any mini love that has come before...at least for this week!

(This Sweet Altered Tin is a Secret Doll Hideaway for a Toothpick doll and two Matchstick Dolls, that I made for my niece's birthday surprise!)

Vintage crafts and toys have always stirred up in me a deep sense of tradition and culture. A welcome stroll down memory lane each and every time I see a new treasure from the past. What I truly love is to re-create those old-fashioned trinkets and treasures with a contemporary twist...that twist?....ME, of course!! lol

Whether its these delightful thread-wrapped Toothpick Dolls, Pom Pom Critters (such as Steiff's vintage wool puff animals and characters from Germany in the early 1900's), Pop-Up (Push-up) toys from Folk Art Toy lore, or handpainted Wooden Peg Dolls and Clothespin Dolls, the endless list of vintage primative crafted toys captivates me. I have grandiouse plans to explore this long lost world of humble toys and create an entire library of FREE TUTORIALS on making these wonderful heart-stirring trinkets. I am of the belief that something does not have to be technologically complicated or extravagantly expensive, to be extraordinary!!

When it comes to old-fashioned crafts, I am inspired by the fact that most are made using the most basic of supplies. Nothing fancy or outlandish. People in the past did not have the resources nor the finances that most of us have at our fingertips today. They made do with what they had on hand. Often, they did not have much. Toys were a luxury. Most were handcrafted by parents or grandparents, aunties & uncles. There was love spun into the toy by virtue of the intention of the craftsman. The best part is that the love lasts long after the toy is gone...the memory will always carry the love.

On a practical level, I get an artistic thrill out of taking humble meager supplies, and turning them into Artful Treasures. Such is the story with these Toothpick Dolls. The only thing you need is a few wooden sticks, scraps of embroidery thread, and some glue, and voila! You have a pocketful of Sunshine, with these tiny dolls filling your heart and your most secret places.

I am an overgrown kid. My home is full of toys and dolls and things that make my heart smile. These Toothpick Dolls make my heart smile. I am happy to share them with you, in the hopes that your heart too, will smile wide! Maybe you'll be inspired to make a few for yourself or your favorite miniature loving friend, or your most beloved kiddo? If I can inspire you to explore, to create, to share...I have achieved my goal!!

There are several free tutorials on making Toothpick dolls. (Though none I have found on making Matchstick Dolls like the one my toothpick doll is holding, so I will be making one for you ASAP!) 

 The best Toothpick Doll tutorial that I have found is by Emily Bishop. You can find the first of her 4 part series of FREE video tutorials on making Toothpick Dolls HERE.

For my own Toothpick dolls, I have followed similar tutorial steps for the most part. You will see, once you get into the crafting, that it is a simple process, and can be adapted as you find necessary. 

Supplies & Tools you will need:

*Small Sharp Embroidery type Scissors (to cut thread)

*Heavy Duty Scissors or Kitchen Shears (to cut toothpicks to desired size)

*Emory Board or Small piece of Sandpaper to soften edges of toothpicks

*Toothpicks (Blue Diamond brand is my preference, which offers 2-styles, a classic one with pointed ends and an "elegant" version (as labeled) which has a decorative lathed end which works well for feet and hands)

*Fast Dry Tacky Glue (regular tacky glue can also be used successfully)

*Embroidery Floss in various colors

For each Doll you will need the following sized pieces of toothpicks:

2 pieces - 2" inches long (for legs)

1 piece -  1-1/4" inches long (for head/body) with a pencil mark at 5/8" (to specify the center)

2 pieces - 1" inch long (for arms)

 Depending on toothpick styles, you may or may not have a decorative end on one side of your toothpick. If you do, I suggest using the blut end (decorative) as the "shoe" and "hand" ends. They will provide a good base to wrap the thread and create a rounded end.

(When you glue the body together, decide whether you want the feet/legs to be slightly apart and straight in their form, or if you want a "Fashion Model" style doll which has legs/feet that come together at the base. You can see from the photo that by using the pointed end of the toothpick for the "crotch" area in between the legs, it will create a slim tapered line with the legs that bring the feet together snuggly. If you use the blunt end of the toothpick at the "crotch" of the doll, it will create a wider separation of the legs. It is entirely your choice. Either way looks adorable as you can see from the various samples)

For the dolls body, glue the legs to either side of the head/body piece, lining up the pointed ends of the toothpick with the pencil marking halfway on the head/body piece. Set aside to dry completely.

Once the body is completely dry you can begin thread wrapping your new little doll. Start with the color thread you want to use for the torso. Decide which side will be the back, so that you can remember to ALWAYS ONLY PUT GLUE ON THE BACK SIDE OF YOUR DOLL. This will keep it looking neat and tidy on the front, which is what matters most, right?!!

Place a tiny (and I mean TINY) spot of glue to anchor the end of your thread on the back (near where the "rib cage" might be) and let the glue dry. It will only take a couple of minutes and then the thread will be securely attached. If you start wrapping too soon, the end may come off and that would be a tragic tale in the making of your mini masterpiece!

(This photo is a different sample doll then the tutorial project but the wrapping process is the same. Wrap until the dress/shirt is the length you desire. If you want to change colors for stripes, just glue off the end on he back, and start a new color on the back side)

When you begin to thread-wrap, you will find that you can either twirl the body piece while you hold the thread in place OR you can hold the body piece securely while you wrap the thread around it. I tend to do a little bit of both, depending on what piece I am working on. However you feel most comfortable in wrapping the toothpicks is good...it isn't rocket science, its toothpick wrapping, right?!! lol

There are no mistakes. You can wrap whichever colors you want, for as long as you want, in order to create the "clothing" you are simulating. When you get to the end of the area of color you desire, just place a tiny spot of glue (use a toothpick as a tool to control the amount of glue you place on the doll) ON THE BACK SIDE IN LINE WITH WHERE THE THREAD IS LINING UP ON THE DOLL, then lay the thread into the glue spot and press down with your finger firmly, then trim the thread. To add extra stability, place a tiny amount of glue over the cut end and use your clean finger to rub the glue across the thread end and over into the other threads of the piece. MAKE SURE THE GLUE IS ALWAYS ONLY PLACED ON THE DOLL BACK SIDE!

(After wrapping the clothing to the desired length, begin to wrap skin tone thread around each leg, starting with a secure glue spot on the back side of one leg. Wrap closely, dabbing a spot of glue when you get to the end of the feet, or where you want your "socks" to begin)

*IMPORTANT NOTE:

If you wrap too closely to the end of the toothpick at any point in the process, the wraps may possibly come rolling off the end (which is annoying and frustrating), so I like to place a tiny dot of glue near the end as I approach it with my wrapping. then I wrap over the glue at the end point, being careful not to go "over the edge", then I slide (in the direction the thread is going) my clean finger over the thread to smooth the glue and the fibers into place.

Deciding whether or not you want separately wrapped legs or a long "gown" wrap which goes over both legs together, is probably your biggest choice in crafting Toothpick Dolls. You can do an internet search via Google (or your favorite search engine) to see various photos of the styles of Toothpick Dolls that other crafters & artists have come up with. I happen to prefer the look of separately wrapped legs, so often I will combine a "gown" look in a shorter length so that I can wrap legs below the hem. It gives more of a real doll look, as opposed to a "mummy" look. lol

(These dolls are the beginnings of Princess Elsa & Sister Anna, using metalic threads. I will post photos when they are finished.)

Once you have the body "clothing" wrapped in place, shoes included, you can begin work on the arms. Arms are wrapped separately then glued to the body. Begin by anchoring your thread in place with a tiny dot of glue on the back side of the arm up near the point (which will be the shoulder), but it does not need to be exactly at the tip. If some tootpick shows, its okay because it will be covered by thread wrapping at the shoulder area. (Pointed end of the toothpick is the top of the arm which gets glued to the body).

Wrap arm down towards hand (wide end) using either a skin tone color thread OR a matching/contrasting color sleeve to match the clothing on the body. When you get to the end of the color area, place a smal dot of glue and secure end in place, then trim. Add skin tone for hands if you have been using a contrasting color. Repeat for opposite arm. Set aside to dry.

Glue arms in place on sides of upper body at the place where torso wrapping ends. The protruding toothpick at the top of the body is where the neck and head will be wrapped next.
(See Emily Bishop's youtube tutorial for detailed instructions on wrapping the head: Toothpick Doll Tutorial Part 2

To make the neck and head, anchor the end of skin tone thread on the back side of lower neck. When dry and secure, begin wrapping up neck to top head area. When you get to the very tip of head, place a small dot of glue to insure that the head wraps will not come off the edge. Cover the entire neck with one smooth even wrap, then increase wraps at "chin" area and forehead area (leaving a small "valley" in between the forehead and chin (this helps to establish a more solid foundation for the head). If you just wrap a growing oval shape, the thread will often tend to roll off the end and create a mess, so I have found that this method of creating two separate small "mounds" at the chin and forehead first, then filling in the center valley area as I wrap back and forth between the chin/forehead mounds.

I like to create a somewhat oblong shaped head, as opposed to a perfectly round circle. I think it has a more realistic effect and it also happens to be the easiest way to make a head for me.

(You can see from this photo that the head has more of an oblong shape)

If you want to have a really round head for more of a cartoon style character, you can use an 8mm or 10mm wood bead (unfinished so it will take the thread wrap more successfully). If you want to use a bead for the head, first wrap a layer of thread on the neck stick so that the bead hole won't be too large. Fit the bead on snuggly while gluing securely in place. Continue to wrap around bead as you would to cover other parts of doll. Glue ends in place to finish off cleanly.

(When wrapping shoulders, I will often make a criss-cross with the thread, wrapping across the upper body and around the back side, which makes it easier to fill in the shoulder area smoothly. This is not necessary, but it can be helpful when threads and toothpicks are not being agreeable. I also place a tiny dot of glue along each shoulder edge to make sure the threads don't roll off) 

(Secure the end of the upper body wrap with a tiny dot of glue on the back, then smooth with finger)

To make "shoulders" you will simply wrap a chosen color of thread over the upper arms area. Anchor the end of thread on the upper back of doll and allow to dry securely. Beegin wrapping at the lower neck area and wrap downward towards the waist, until you have covered the exposed toothpick area. Glue the end in place on the back side when you reach a desired look. Trim thread end.

(I used a single-strand of embroidery thread to crochet a scalloped lace edging for the bottom of the dolls dress. If you crochet, it is easy peasy, just chain enough to fit the circumferance of the doll, then chain an extra 5 sts and slst into the 6th st from hook, ch 5, skip a stitch and slst into the next stitch, repeat to the end of the row, then finish off, and glue carefully into place on bottom edge of dress.

Making hair is where you will really give your Toothpick Doll personality. You not only have the choice of making girls or boys with these tiny dolls, but you can also get as detailed on the hairstyles  as you have the gumption to do! Long straight hair with bangs, Curly locks like Shirley Temple, Braids, Butch-cut...whatever your little heart desires can be put into action on your doll.

In the most basic of conceptions, you are just trying to cover the bald head, right?!! So that is your ultimate goal...cover the head. Your next goal is to do it in a cute way, so look through various doll hair styles on Pinterest, or your favoirite internet engine search for "miniature doll hair styles", and you will come up with endless inspiration.

The technique of creating tiny doll hair involves attaching cut pieces of embroidery thread across the "scalp" in as natural a manner as possible. Considering there is NOTHING natural about a 2" Toothpick Doll, you have CREATIVE REIGN!! I give you permission!! There are NO RULES!!! 

(Cut 5-6 tiny pieces of embroidery thread for bangs, if desired, and glue across top of head)

(Using 2-inch pieces of thread, fold in half and glue the folded end at the top of the head next to the bangs on either side. Repeat these loops all across the back of the head, meeting the edges of where the back side of bangs cover head to make sure you hide the scalp) 

(After you have covered the entire head with long strands of hair, take a strand of hair and using a small line of glue across the "headband" area of head, lay strands of hair to cover the raw edge folds of the underside hair strands. Repeat this process with 2 or 3 more strands to create a clean hairstyle. Be sure to use minimal amounts of glue so the doll doesn't become a gluey mess!)

Make Rainbow hair if you'd like to, I promise I won't judge you!! 
I once had Rainbow hair myself, so I'm no one to talk! 

(My Matchstick Raggedy Ann doll is the perfect example of how to make Curly Hair using embroidery thread, moistened with water and wrapped around a toothpick, let dry)

*Free Tutorial on making Matchstick Raggedy Ann & Andy, to follow soon!

Curly Hair: To make ringlet curls, take a strand of embroidery thread and get it soaking wet, then pat dry; wrap it around a toothpick and set aside overnight to dry completely. When it is dry, carefully slide off of the toothpick and VOILA! You have ringlet curls!! Cut ringlets to size desired and glue in place. 

You can also use two toothpicks (one for each end of the cut piece of thread, if you want to have smooth hair in between the curls, so they can drape over the head with it being straight across the head, while having ringlet curls on the ends. (I hope that makes sense?)

Braids: To make braids, its important to lay the hair out so that it will have the braids positioned in the spot you prefer, whether it is pigtail braids, or a high knot ponytail braid. Think it through and experiment BEFORE you pull out the glue. It is quite often best to cover the "scalp" first with a foundation layer of hair, and then come back and add the braids in separately, gluing them in place, rather then trying to "plant" the hair and braid it afterwards. Experimenting is the best way to find out what works for your doll!

Embellishments:

Adding tiny details to your doll will take it to the next level. In addition to detailed craftsmanship, these extra touches can add tremendous character to your creations.

Tiny Bows: Using a single strand of embroidery thread OR sewing thread, tie tiny bows, just as you would tie your shoe with a bow, pulling the tail ends carefully and sloooooowwwwly until the loops are extra tiny and evenly matched. Trim the thread ends. Place a teensy weensy dot of glue at the center back of the bow to make sure it doesn't come untied. Bows in matching or contrasting colors can add just the touch of perfection you need!

Crystals & Beads: These tiny additions can transform your doll from beyond a crafty trinket and into a work of art. You can create stunning fashion show worthy art dolls by simply adding sparkle and twinkle in the right places....a neckline, a hemline, perhaps a tiny diamond ring (crystal) on your dolls hand? Let your imagination run wild! What about a glorious "bead encrusted" bridal gown? And what about a custom designed bridal party to match the gowns worn by your favoirite brides' maids?!! Wouldn't that be a lovely gift for attendants in a wedding?!

Polymer Clay Embellishments: Fimo, Sculpey, Primo, Paperclay...you can use any or all of these brands of polymer oven-bake clays or air-dry clays, all to make exquisite accessories for your dolls. Whether it is teensy weensy buttons for your dolls clothing, hair barrettes towear, Purses to hold, Cooking tools for a chef doll, or tiny toys you can sculpt to recreate your favorite memories, the possibilities are endless with polymer clay. Do an internet search for Polymer Clay Free Tutorials and your mind will be BLOWN!!  Check out the Polymer clay FREE TUTORIALS from Youtube...you might never come up for air, you'll be so captivated!! Here is my favorite polyclay miniaturist's youtube tutorial channel: 

FREE Polymer Clay Tutorials


Crochet Lace & Trim: If you know how to crochet, your dolls will open up an whole new crochet world for you. I like to use a single strand of embroidery thread to crochet a lacey scalloped edge for the bottom of dresses and skirts. I use a 1.25mm crochet hood (or smaller if I am using sewing thread) and make a chain long enough to wrap the circumferance of the doll area to be trimmed. 

Use any of your favorite crochet lace patterns to recreate in miniature with the thread. Just by downsizing the thread and the size of the crochet hook, you can use your regular yarn patterns and they will magically become miniscule!! But don't say I didn't warn you that it is a killer on the eyes!! I suggest using a good pair of manifying/reading glasses when you do miniature crochet.

I don't expect that this Toothpick obsession of mine will be leaving anytime soon, so I have plans for further explorations in Toothpick Dolls, Matchstick Dolls, and Mini Peg Dolls!  

Next project on the agenda: Matchstick Dolls :)

Be sure to subscribe to my blog so you don't miss out on all the FREE TUTORIALS!! Lets make this world a WHIMSICAL WONDERMENT...One Wonder-filled Craft at a Time!!!

With Sugarplum Hugs!!

Deanne

Please let me know what you think in the comments below and I would love to see your creations too!!

Forever Cakes!

I love cake!

Who doesn't? 
(If you don't...don't tell me!!)

The one sad thing about cake, is eating it...not that the actual eating part is sad, its just that the eating part destroys the beautiful artistry part, turning it into a pile of crumbs and frosting swipes on an empty plate. There's no getting around it. That's just the way the story goes...

Sure, a tummy laden with sugary goodness, is the marvelous outcome, but what else? 

NOTHING! 

Nothing to show for the magnificent Cake-tastical-ness you just experienced...except for photographs and quickly fading memories.

So I had the idea (on many occasions) in the past, to create an "Eternal" cake. Hey, don't get fussy with me...I realize they most likely will not last eternally...but they'll come far closer than any baked cake you'll come across! 

To put my idea into action, for my parents 50th wedding anniversary several years ago, not only did I whollop my parents with a grandiouse surprise party that nearly gave them each a heart attack, I also created what I call a "Forever Cake" for them. I made it out of styrofoam discs, glued together, then decorated with silk flower blossoms and fun retro-style Wedding Couple on the top. 
(I will post a photo as soon as I get to my mom's and take one)
  My parents "Forever" cake was a big hit at the party, and still sits with honor, on their antique hutch in the kitchen, 10 years later!

When my BFF Tina's 50th birthday made its way to my crafty world, I needed to come up with something reeeeeally special for her. You see, My "T" is one of the most incredible people I know...overcome more hardships then I'd care to recall...and then she rose from the destruction and the ashes like a glorious Phoenix in flight! I love Tina more than any sister I might have ever had, if life had chosen to give me one through blood. 

For Tina's 50th celebration, she planned a tropical getaway for the family and close friends, to the heavenly island of Maui. With great disappointment, my beloved "Romeo" and I were not able to join them, as the Dodgers had made the playoffs, and his coaching position put a kabosh on any idea of travel. Once I stopped sulking, and feeling sorry for myself, I began plans for bringing the tropics, back to Arizona, in a "Forever Cake" for Tina.

Tina and I share a deep love for Hawaii. I traveled with my family as a child there, falling in love with the islands immediately, and then attended college on Oahu, at the University of Hawaii at Manoa, meeting and falling deeply in love with my husband, Chuck (33 years and counting!!). 

Tina also loves Dolphin, so when it came time to decide on a theme for her "Forever Cake"...it was a "Piece of Cake"! 

(Hey now, don't think I don't hear your guffah on the pun!)

Assembling the Cake:

Supplies:

Styrofoam discs (4) size depends on your desired cake size

(I used 4 discs approx. 5" in diameter, purchased in packs of 2 from my local Dollar Tree store)

(1) Styrofoam ball approx. 2-1/2" in diameter (cut in half with a serrated knife or exacto blade) to shape the center of the "island"

Tacky Craft Glue

(I used Aleene's tacky craft glue in the gold bottle)

2-3 tubes of Acrylic Bathroom Caulking (Bright White)

(purchased from Home Depot in the paint section-construction tube: $2.88 each)

Acrylic Paint in various colors for "frosting:

(I used Liquitex Acrylic Paint in plastic tubes, but you can use any kind of Acrylic paint)

Plastic Toys, Beads, Metal Charms, Miniature Palm Tree (purchased from Hobby Bench store), shells, etc. and any decorations you want to use to achieve the theme you are going for on the cake top

Foam glitter stickers or other embellishments for the side of cake decorations

Several heavy-duty gallon size ziplock bags

(for mixing frosting & using as a "piping bag")

Non-stick surface to work on OR plastic wrap laid on a counter-top


Assembling the Cake:

First, glue the 4 styrofoam discs together, using the tacky craft glue. Allow to dry completely. If the discs are different sizes slightly, you can use sand paper to make them more even, but truthfully, the "frosting will cover any uneven areas.

Then glue one of the halves of the 2-1/2" styrofoam ball onto the top center of the cake. This will be the shape to form the island hilltop, which is easier then trying to mound the "frosting" manageably and evenly.

Next, I started temporarily placing the embellishments onto the styrofoam base, just to get an idea of where I wanted the items to live happily. Don't ask me how much anxiety I get when I find the best layout, and then have to remove them! 
(Hint: take a photo if you're afraid you'll forget!) 


Making the "Frosting"

Use a large heavy duty zip lock bag (do not take a chance on budget bags because the last thing you want, is caulking all over your counter when a cheap bag seam breaks!!)

If you have a caulking gun handle, use it! I didn't want to spend $6.00 to buy one (and forgot my hubby already had one), so my first two tubes, I just cut the tip off the tube of caulking, and used a heavy handled wooden spoon to push the bottom of the tube where the plunger part is. It took so much strength to squeeze out the stuff from the tube. OMG! I am still sore today from it! lol 

So my expert advice, is to ask your husband if you have a caulking gun handle!  My third tube was a breeze to empty into the bag, using the caulking gun.

Next, squeeze some paint into the bag, depending on how much "cake" you are frosting, adjust how much caulking you put into the bag. There isn't any real formula for deciding how much...perhaps if you have a friend who decorates real cakes, they can share their suggestions for quantities that it takes to frost a certain size cake. The amount of paint you use depends on the intensity of the color you are going for. I used three different colors of blue paint to achieve a varigated blue color for the water. I didn't mix it completely so that it kept the various striations of color. 

For the sand I blended the colors so that they were a uniform color and completely encorporated with the caulking. You can also purchase colored caulking in natural colors if you prefer not to have to blend your own colors.

Once the sand color was blended, I cut a small point off the corner of the plastic bag to begin applying the sand frosting to the top of the cake. I glued the palm tree in place first to make sure it was located where I wanted it to be, and I frosted around it, just squeezing the caulking evenly over the styrofoam to make a smooth "sand" type of appearance.

While the sand is still wet (it will begin to dry quickly on the outside, so don't wait too long before applying your cake top decorations.

I added a ceramic Hula Dancer bead, a metal Castle charm with the loop nipped off (sanded smooth with an emery board) that I painted with 2 coats of gold glitter nail polish, tiny seashells, a beach-chair charm (loop removed), and a few flower bell beads that I glued a crystal into the center, a sea turtle charm, and a mermaid charm (with loop nipped off). 

Next I added a small band of white caulking to border the edge of the sand. This is to look like the waves foaming on the shoreline. Using my blend of blues I made the water color, using approx. 2 tubes of caulking to complete the entire cake surface and circumference. I completed the top of the cake with an additional border of "water" frosting, making sure to leave a place for the mermaid, sea turtle, and the surfer. 

When frosting the cake, be sure to do the top first, then allow it  to dry for 12-24 hours. The caulking is rather heavy, and if you try to do the whole cake at one time, theres a good chance it will start to droop or fall off the sides. To combat this, I did the top first and allowed it to dry so that the next additions would kind of grab onto the previously dried caulking. 

For frosting the sides, you may be tempted to raise the cake onto a pedastal that allows the cake edge to hang over for easy frosting access...DO NOT DO THIS!! I tried it and had an entire side of frosting fall off the cake as it slowly drooped and fell off! The heavy weight of the caulking requires some planning.

Once the top frosting was dry, I began to apply frosting to the side of the cake. I started at the top edge and made looping ribbons of frosting to look like waves and the motion of water. I suggest putting your cake on a moveable plate or tray so you can easily rotate it for access. 

While the sides are still wet, press the foam sticker accents into the frosting. You may need to go back over each sticker, pressing it into the caulking if the edges pop out a little bit. The caulking surface will begin to dry quickly, so apply your embellishments as soon as possible, or  you will have trouble making them stick. 

Another option is using E600 glue to apply the accents once the frosting has dried, but it won't have the inset appearance, and will not look as much like a real decorated cake.

For Tina's special celebration, I included a rhinestone "50" on the side to commemorate her monumental birthday. I didn't put it on the top of the cake, because I want her to be able to display it all the time, and not feel like it was specifically for that particular party. 

Another "Happy Accident" is the hole in the Dolphin bead on the cake. Originally I tried to think of a way to fill up the bead hole, as it bothered me...but when I realized it was the perfect place to put a thin birthday candle, it was ideal!

To finish off the "Eye Candy" display...or "Eye Cake" if you want to get technical...Place it on a paper doily atop a beautiful glass plate, or cake pedastal. I am sure you will have more than one visitor that will want to take a big swipe of "frosting" off the cake!

Have fun making your own Cake-tastic Creation, and be sure to come back and tell me all about it!!

With Sugarplum Hugs!

Deanne 

Terrariums & Miniature Garden Wishing Bottles

Terrariums are captivating. Whether its an air plant placed artfully inside a sand and shell-filled, seaglass jar, or a  jam packed glass orb with layers of greenery to compel you into the hidden secret garden...there is no denying the magic. I have always loved terrariums. The best part is, if you do it right...it practically takes care of itself! Now THAT is a plant world anyone can love, eh?! 

When I laid eyes on some teensy weensy terrarium bottles (on Pinterest, my guilty pleasure), I knew I had to try making them for myself. I already had the bottles from my many adventures in jewelry-making and craft supply hoarding, and the rest was a piece of cake!  You can find miniature bottles at any craft store or online for very reasonable prices. Start by getting some quality soil, pebbles/stones, and some tiny plants that willl thrive in a moist environment.

Once I started thinking about constructing the tiny terrariums, I realized that I had a voracious terrarium appetite, and needed a large one in my home, perhaps even a few! As long as I was planning on purchasing plants, it made sense to use them all up (most came in packs of 8 seedling plants together for $2.49 or were larger pots that I separated into individual plantings, such as the Irish Moss and the Elvin Thyme, my fav!!). 

I purchased some giant glass jars from Walmart for $9.44, and smaller ones for $7.44 (what a bargain!). Organic soil from Miracle Gro was my choice for the tiny bottle terrarium bases, using no rocks for drainage since there is virtually no extra space. For the large terrariums, I first placed a 1-1/2"- 2" layer of small pebble rocks, for water drainage. I found the rocks at the .99 cent Only store, and used two bags per large terrarium, and one bag for the smaller jar. 

Next I added a 1" layer of activated charcoal pieces to assist with purifying the water as it  recirculates through the natural evaporation/re-watering process within the terrarium. I purchased the charcoal at my local Green Thumb Garden Center for $5.98 per bag (I purchased two bags, thinking I'd need them, but man oh man, that stuff multiplies, and I still have half a bag left after making three big terrariums!!). You can also find charcoal in the pet fish area of pet supply stores because its the same stuff used in fish tanks.

For the next layer, you can add 1" of sphagnum moss, which will help keep the soil from filtering down into the rocks, however, I didn't feel I'd have adequate room inside my terrarium, so I skipped this step...after seeing the soil trickling its way down into the drainage rocks, I think I would make room for the moss next time!

The soil comes next...I put a 4" layer of organic potting soil (I just like a chemical-free environment, even if I am not eating it, I am potentially breathing it in!). Then using my hands or spoons, I made slight indentations for the plants. I planned on one in the center area, three around the edges, with Irish moss in between each of the outer plants. I then added additional soil around each seedling plant to make sure it was firmly packed into place. 

The Irish Moss went in next; it has a dense root system and is easily separated into clumps, which I just pressed into the soil already in the jar. There was no need to add aditional soil around the Irish Moss. The key, just as in any full size garden planting, be sure to press the soil firmly around the plant so no air pockets remain, as that is not good for the roots.

Once all the plants are in place, water lightly, a small amount at a time, trying to give each plant a gentle drink, but don't over water! You will see water gathering in the rocks at the base, and you don't want more then about 1/2" of water to end up in the bottom.

After you water the plants in, take a soft cloth or paper towel and wipe down the sides of the jar, removing all dirt particles and creating a clean viewing area. For the first day you can leave the lid off the jar to allow excess moisture to evaporte. Then put the lid on the jar (My large terrarium glass jars  do not have a completely tight seal, though on my mini terrariums, the cork stopper does create a tight seal which works very well...so far!)

When constructing the miniature terrariums, fill the jar approximately 1/4 with moistened soil and pack down tightly with a cotton-swab or the blunt end of a wooden skewer or chopstick.

Once you have chosen your tiny plants you will need to separate them into seedlings that will fit into the small bottle. You might need to trim the height if it is too tall. (In the photo below, Elvin Thyme is on the left, and a tiny clump of Irish moss is on the right).

Using tweezers, carefully plant your seedlings into the tiny bottle. Add extra dirt particles if necessary, or rearrange the dirt inside the bottle to cover the roots as best you can. Water with a drop or two, and if too much fills the bottle, blow in it to get some out, then leave bottle open for a day or two until the excess water evaporates. Place the cork to seal the bottle while there is still moisture enough to nourish the plant inside.

VOILA!!

You now have a beautiful miniature garden environment to admire, with very little attention to keep it alive. It requires medium to low light, but NO DIRECT SUN because it can get very hot inside the terrarium and possibly burn your plants as well, just like a magnifying glass. It is better to err on the side of too little water, than too much. When you have a small reservoir of water in the drainage rocks, it will circulate by evaporating up onto the glass jar lid and sides, then dribble down into the plants, keeping them nourished. 

As plants become too large for the container, it may be required to replace them, or trim them. Be sure to pick plants that like a low light and moist enviroment, such as: Irish Moss, African Violets, Ferns, Babys Tears, and others your garden experts can recommend. My personal addition and experimentation (which seem to be working well so far) is: Elvin Thyme, with teeny leaves and purple flowers with  bright (not direct) light. 

You can see that the plants are growing marvelously already, and they have only been living in their new home for a few days.

Careful planning of plant placement makes for a cozy little environment that can easily be embellished with miniature accessories to enhance the wonderment. If you are like me, and love to create imaginary worlds, this is a great way to do it! Just remember that any embellishments you place in the terrarium, need to be water safe because it will get very steamy and moist inside!

Let It Snow!!

Okay..I know I live in Phoenix, Arizona, where snow is reserved for snow-cones and not for sidewalks, but I can dream can't I?!! 

I'll just have to stick with glitter...and that's totally fine with me!

I love glitter. 
Reeeeally LOVE it...Like, I could probably find my bliss if I coated everything in my life in sparkly bright colorful flecks of metallic shimmeringness! 

(Is that even a word?!!) 

Yes, because I say it is...

So you can imagine the holidays at my house, I'm guessing? Yup, glitter EVERYWHERE!! Not necessarily on purpose, though...my hubby is getting a little annoyed at picking it off his own face...we aren't quite sure how it gets there, but it does! 

(Insert sinister "glittery" laugh here!)

I don't think I mentioned in my previous Snow Folk Jars post, how I made the arms, or in most cases they look more like "angel wings" making them "Snow Angels" instead of mere "folks"!!

I used a 1-inch wide strip of neutral or cream colored woven fabric to initially wrap around the jar neck, right where the head is glued on (after paper clay dries completely). I put a generous amount of tacky glue onto the glass, then started wrapping the fabric around, adding more glue as necessary. 

After the first few wraps, I glued and tightly attached "arms" with a tight wrapping several times around, adding glue to secure. I wrapped the various jars with different amounts of fabric, depending on the bottle shape. They told me when to stop! 

You can use any kind of (non-stretchy) fabric for the wrapping. You can even use burlap for a more "earthy" look, which would be adorable! Once you add the glittery "snow", even a colorful printed fabric would be fun and festive! 

For their "arms" (or Angel Wings), I used "crystal & pearl" beaded floral sprays and glittered fruit & leaf sprays, which I found at the craft store in the holiday floral trim section, but you could just as easily use small twigs and branches from your yard!

To add extra embellishments, I used "Eyelash" yarn (found in every craft store I've ever been in, at the crochet/knitting section), to wrap around the base of hats and at necks like "scarves" for an extra frilly look. I also tied jingle bells, tiny charms, and other trinkets 

around the necks, adding personalized name beads or words like "love", "peace", & "joy", for a special touch.

Today, it's time to "Snow" Glittery Wintern-ess onto my desert-born Snow Folks, and they are quite excited about it.

They're cute enough without the glitter...really they are...no one would even miss the glitter, I'm sure...but leaving off the sparkles is like giving someone a cupcake without frosting, and we certainly can't allow that, now can we? NO! Of course we can't!!

So, here is one last look at them before it "Snows"

(And if you are one of my "beloved's" and happen to see your name on a Snow Folk....it's just a figment of your imagination!!)

I used Liquitex Clear Matte Medium to paint onto the areas that I wanted the "snow" to stick. You can coat the entire head and body (leaving the glass jar clean for viewing contents), or you can just dab the stuff in random places, then sprinkle liberally with iridescent or white snowflake glitter. I like to use various types, colors, and sizes of glitter (as your imagination desires), to give a varied "snowflake" look. 

The "snow" becomes a way to unify the design, bringing all the kooky accessories and embellishments together into one cohesive design and display.

As you spend the next year gathering your doo-dads and accessories for next years Snow Folks, (and I promise you will not be able to get these cute guys out of your mind!)...don't limit yourself...think outside of the box...(toy blocks and tinker toys make great hats!)...check clearance aisles in craft stores, Party stores (for cheap kids toys and party favors), flea markets, garage sales, antique stores, hardware stores, your hubby's garage junk bins, Dollar stores, YOUR OWN CRAFT CLOSET!!

The embellishments can be anything you want or imagine...once you "glitter-ify" everything, you'll look like an Altered Art Genius to your friends!! There are no mistakes!

The ornate silver "hat" I used on one of my Snow a Folks, is actually the top of a perfume bottle that had long since been used and thrown away. But I kept the beautiful bottle top, thinking that some day I'd come up with a crafty way to use it...and I did! I absolutely lalalaLOVE the way it looks! 

(So this officially establishes me as a hoarding "enabler" as I encourage you to never ever throw out anything you might be able to use as crafting supplies....EVER!!)

But please don't tell your loved ones I'm to blame, okay?!! I have enough to deal with, just keeping my hubby from launching into orbit over my piles!!

I save anything and everything that has a remote possibility of being used in the future in one of my projects...the real problem is that I have NO LIMIT to the varied art forms, mediums, and avenues of creativity that I travel and explore, so my heaping piles of stashed supplies are growing endlessly...but it sure makes for great "shopping" in my own craft closet!

I hope you have enjoyed my adventure in "Snow Folk Jars" with me. You can find my original article on starting them HERE

With Big sugarplum Hugs!!
Deanne